Lehigh Portland State Park – Kansas’ newest state park

While the state park infrastructure of Lehigh Portland State Park isn’t built up yet, the beautiful Lehigh Portland trails south of Iola are open for business, and they are definitely well worth a visit (or two or three) whether you’re on foot or riding a bike!

View from the South Loop

It’s hard to pinpoint just what it is that makes the place so special. It could be the views out from the bluffs over the spring-fed quarry lake, which is super clear. It could be the well-maintained trails that run through stretches of tall prairie grasses or through hardwood forest and offer something to everyone, whether you want to spend a full day exploring or just take out a picnic lunch. It could be the passion that those who’ve helped build the park into what it is today and the vision that they have for its future. All I know is that I can’t wait to go back and visit again.

A quick history of how we got here. On April 19, 2023, Governor Laura Kelly established Kansas’ 28th state park — the Lehigh Portland State Park in Iola

It’s on the site of what was once the largest cement plant in the United States – the Iola Portland Cement Company, according to Lehigh Trails. That company was bought by the Lehigh Portland Cement Company in 1917, which operated there until 1970. From there, Iola Industries Inc. purchased the land and buildings. In 2016, the trail system was officially opened, and over 50 years since the original purchase, Iola Industries donated 360 acres of land to state of Kansas to make it into a state park.

Kansas basically got a turnkey park when it comes to the Lehigh Portland State Park, Lisse Regehr, President and CEO for Thrive Allen County, explained to us. Regehr said that “over a million dollars of infrastructure and volunteer hours have gone into creating the trail system.” And while there is plenty of work for the state to do in terms of building up infrastructure, the trail system is pretty much finished, thanks in large part to hundreds of volunteer hours.

And those trails are outstanding! They are primarily on the eastern and western side of the spring-fed quarry lake. There’s a combination of a few miles of wide gravel trail and many more miles of singletrack, ideal for mountain biking. There’s also a range of difficulties. If you’re starting out on a mountain bike or have kids, the Foundations Trail is perfect. If you want something with a challenge, try Cave Trail North, Mountain Goats, and Goat Creek. The 11-feet-wide gravel Backbone trail connects all the trails, and there’s a connector gravel trail to the nearby Southwind Rail Trail that runs from Iola to Humboldt. Here’s a full trail map.

The view from John Brown’s Cave

Some of the standout options include the South Loop, which winds through the trees, through the prairie, and along the quarry with some stunning views of the lake. And Cave Trail South leads you right by John Brown’s Cave. While Regehr said there’s not necessarily specific evidence that THE John Brown ever stayed there, there’s no proof that he didn’t. (More on John Brown’s Cave in a later post). And one of the sweetest, and most unexpected trails, is the John Robert Cross Country Ski Memorial along the Backbone Trail. It has to do with a first date and a fun-loving grant writer – more on that soon.

The trails are free to access, and there’s not currently (as of this writing) a fee to park your car at the trailheads, but as the state park designation moves forward, there is a parking fee at state parks. It will be free to walk into or ride your bike into the park, and the park is easily accessible from the town of Iola.  

Regehr explained what some of the upcoming plans and goals are for the state park, and they are impressive. There will be an expansion of the Backbone Trail so that it runs all the way around the lake. There will be an amphitheater, a large swimming beach, kayak and paddleboard dock, fishing docks, a boardwalk, restrooms, a multi-story visitors center with views out over the lake. And if you want to stay at the park, there will eventually be RV and primitive campsites and perhaps someday, floating cabins. I can’t imagine a more idyllic setting than being able to watch the sunrise and sunset from on the water itself. 

For now, if you’re looking to explore Iola, there are some amazing lofts you can stay in downtown, and there’s Base Camp in Humboldt for camping – more on both of those as well!

Seeking solace

Seeking solace

Trails have always been an important place to find solace and a good hike allows time and space for reflection.  As the rising tide of anxiety and concern reach new levels each day, it is a wonderful time to refocus on what is truly important in life.  While trails are valuable, they are certainly not the most important thing.  But they can be a pathway to help recenter, regroup and refocus on what does really matter to each of us.  While park offices are currently closed through at least April 6th, all of our Kansas state parks and wonderful trails are still open at this time.

Social distancing doesn’t have to mean sitting at home 24/7. The trails in Kansas have always been a wonderful place to find solitude, and here are four of our favorite places to go without a lot of crowds:

  1. Tallgrass Prairie Preserve, Strong City – hike one of the last great stands of Tallgrass Prairie.  The visitors center is closed but the trails are good to go!
  2. Agave Ridge Trail, Cedar Bluff State Park – You can hike for mile along this trail and rarely encounter another visitor.  A wonderful scenic hike along a little-used but beautiful trail.
  3. Little Jerusalem / Badlands State Park – The guided tours have been been cancelled through mid-April but the trails remain open, a great opportunity to explore your newest state park!
  4. Flint Hills Nature Trail – the longest trail in Kansas has plenty of room to explore, our favorite stretch is the wild Flint Hills from Council Grove to Allen.

If solo hiking, make sure to notify a responsible party of where you are going and when you will return.  People care about you & cell phone service can be spotty on some trails.  Have fun, be responsible, pack a trail lunch and go for a hike this spring!

Little Jerusalem Badlands State Park Coming Soon! Interview with Nature Conservancy

We reached out to The Nature Conservancy with some questions about their work to make Little Jerusalem into a protected Kansas park, and here’s what they had to say.

KTG: What’s the latest status of the Little Jerusalem land?

Nature Conservancy: Little Jerusalem is not yet open to the public. In May, legislation to designate the property as the Little Jerusalem Badland State Park passed both chambers and was signed by the governor. The Nature Conservancy will continue to own the property and establish long-term agreement with the Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism (KDWPT) to manage outdoor recreational opportunities in a manner that protects the fragile rocks. As the landowner, The Nature Conservancy will continue to pay local property taxes and maintain management oversight.

We are currently working closely with KDWPT, engineers and educators to develop a public access plan for this unique landscape. The exact nature of all access is yet to be determined but we are still hopeful that the public will be able to enjoy Little Jerusalem Badlands State Park in the coming year.

Why do you think people are drawn to this area?

The Nature Conservancy’s western Kansas conservation manager explains this best with a story about his four-year-old daughter Josie.

“We had pulled up to a big old pasture not much different than the places I had been lucky to explore as a kid near our farm in western Ness County. It was an impressive, vast, intact place, but it was on the edge of a wind farm and had a single turbine visible from where we were parked. I asked her if she thought the place looked wild, if it would be worth exploring. She simply said, ‘Well it’s not wild, Dad, there’s a big white windmill in it.’ And then I asked her if she’d want to go with me and explore it and her answer was, “Nope, somebody already has.” What this tells me is that there is a very innate part of us with a sense of wonder and exploration, and that part of us appreciates wild places. I suspect appreciation for nature as it was created is left in just about all of us. For me, at a very basic level, that is what The Nature Conservancy is doing: preserving those places and that sense of wonder, so that future generations will someday experience a wild place. And they are doing it right here, in this part of the state that we call home.”

Will it be open to the public with trails and if so, do you know when, or what the trails might consist of (length, access to hikers/bikers/horse)?

The exact nature of all access is yet to be determined, but it will designed to have as little impact to the rocks as possible.

What makes the area so special and/or of interest to The Nature Conservancy?

Beyond the impressive scenic views, Little Jerusalem provides a unique opportunity to connect people to the wonders of the prairie. These rocks serve as important nesting habitat for ferruginous hawks, cliff swallows, rock wrens and other native wildlife. The property is home to the single largest population of Great Plains wild buckwheat, a plant found in the chalk bluffs prairie of western Kansas and nowhere else in the world.

In addition to modern wildlife, these badlands contain 85-million-year-old fossils of swimming and flying reptiles. The Nature Conservancy’s chief purposes for the site are to, first, protect the pristine natural features and, second, provide access for people to enjoy the natural beauty of the area.

What’s the goal of The Nature Conservancy’s work in western Kansas?

Native grasslands are among the most destroyed and least protected ecosystems on Earth. It is estimated that only 3%or fewer of the grasslands that formerly covered the Central Great

Plains are intact. Ongoing encroachment of cropland conversion, energy development, urban sprawl, invasive species, and subdivision continue to degrade and threaten the ecological health of the central Great Plains.

In western Kansas, at least 80% of the native prairie has been converted to some other use. Demonstrating that healthy wildlife populations and successful ranching operations go hand-in-hand is critical to retaining the 20% of the prairie that’s left. Smoky Valley Ranch supports tremendous plant and wildlife diversity while continuing its long history as a working cattle ranch.

The Nature Conservancy manages the 17,290-acre Smoky Valley Ranch as model to demonstrate that healthy ecosystems and profitable agricultural land use can coexist. The Conservancy then works with other landowners in the region to promote land management practices like moderate cattle stocking rates, rotational grazing, and developing drought contingency plans so that conservation can be affected beyond the ranch.

Will the proposed state park plans also include the Smoky Valley Ranch land?

No. The remainder of Smoky Valley Ranch will remain a private, working cattle ranch with visitor access limited to the hiking trails on the western boundary.

Vote now for 2018’s Kansas Trail Destination of the Year

It’s that time again, time to vote for your favorite Kansas trail destination.  The inaugural winner of the award was Iola. Whichever location gets the most votes will be honored as our Top Trail Destination of the Year 2018, and we’ll be sending a free copy of our book to the winning town’s public library

We selected our finalists based on their plans to expand trails as well as their commitment to building and maintaining trails in the Sunflower State. Here’s a bit about them.

Bluffs at Lake Scott State Park

Scott City / Little Jerusalem.  In addition to serving as the gateway to the outstanding trail system at Lake Scott State Park, Scott City will be the destination for travelers heading to explore the newly opened Little Jerusalum area.

Later this year, there will be trails open and available at the well-known, but not previously (legally) accessible chalk formations. Having a maintained trail system there is designed to help protect the area and the formations themselves.

Marysville. The Oregon Trail crossed near Marysville and more recently the Blue River Rail Trail (with the beautiful covered bridges) has expanded north to the Nebraska state line through the diligent work of Marshall County Connection.

The next step is working to extend the rail-trail south further into Marysville to increase accessibility.

Wyandotte County. The county has started its 20/20/20 movement — Expanding bike routes, trails, and safe sidewalks, 20 miles of each (if not more) by 2020. They also have a both hiking and equestrian trails already in place at Wyandotte County Lake.

Flint Hills Nature Trail. The Flint Hills Nature Trail has been a work in progress for many years, but the grand vision of the Kanza Rail-Trails Conservancy is finally coming close to fruition.  The FHNT has been supported by many towns along the way, but this year we are highlighting Council Grove.  From the old Santa Fe Trail to the current Flint Hills Natural Trail, Council Grove has been the original Kansas trail town since 1825.

Vote for your favorite destination! If it’s not in the list, let us know in the comments below.

Vote for the Kansas Top Trail Town 2017

In honor of the upcoming National Trails Day (June 3), we’re hoping to find out which Kansas town / city you think is the best one for trails.

Whichever location gets the most votes will be honored as our Top Trail  Town of the Year 2017, and we’ll be sending a free copy of our book to the winning town’s public library.

We’ve included in our poll the places that are expanding their trail system, have embraced the local trails, and embody the spirit of adventure on the plains.

  • Iola has the Thrive Allen County campaign as well as being the trailhead for the Prairie Spirit Trail, Southwind Rail Trail, and the Lehigh Portland Trails among others.
  • Marysville combines the old and new trails of Kansas. It’s home to the recently completed Blue River Rail Trail that extends into Nebraska as well as the Pony Express Trail and Oregon Trail. The Kansas Sampler Foundation named it the Trails Capital of Kansas.
  • Topeka is the trailhead for the Landon Nature Trail, which starts at the historic site of Brown v Board of Education, it has the only set of trails outside of a Governor’s Mansion, and it’s an access point for the Kansas River Trail.
  • Lawrence is another stop on the Kansas River Trail, and it has a plethora of well-loved and well-maintained trails including the KU Field Station, Clinton Lake, and the nearby recently restore and expanded Baker Wetlands.

Did we leave one out? Let us know and let us hear your vote!

Trail Profile: South Mound Trails

Trail Profile: South Mound Trails

“And when in the great future of the matchless State, farm shall be added to farm, and town to town, and the great cities of the future shall have come, the mounds shall still stand and still keep silent watch over the noble landscape forever beneath their feet.” -William G. Cutler 1883

fredonia-trail-view

View from South Mound

One of the most striking natural landmarks in Wilson County are the Twin Mounds which rise up to an elevation of over 1,000 feet to tower over the surrounding plains.  Noted by William G. Cutler in his 1883 “History of Kansas”, early hikers were said to take a “well-worn path” to the summit and upon reaching the pinnacle can see “unrolled before him one of the finest sights of the new world. Southward runs the somber timber lines which mark the course of Fall River. Westward lies the second mound and between the fertile fields to the far north can be seen the fringe of the Verdigris”

The mounds still keep watch over Fredonia and present a sweeping view of the Fall River valley. The South Mound is now graced by a picnic area, playground, observation tower, and what appears to be the largest American flag west of the Verdigris. Through the work of the Kansas Trails Council and the Cultivate Fredonia Healthy Living Action Team, the South Mound also regained a short trail network that allows hiker and bikers to explore the rocky wooded areas along the rim and steep slopes of the mound.

fredonia-south-mound-flag

Flag & playground on the South Mound

In a patriotic spirit, the trail network is christened the “Old Glory Trail” and trail segments include the 0.34 mile Liberty Trail which traverses the rim of the mound, and a slightly longer loop trail lower on the hillside known as the Freedom Trail.  Both trails have a natural surface and the upper trail offers sweeping views off the side of the mound and some fun rocks and boulders for a little off-trail scrambling. Check out the map below for the trail location and route options.

Interview with Maggie, the winner of our Flint Hills Nature Trail Challenge

We put out our Flint Hills Nature Trail Challenge, and this September, Maggie and Carrie were the first to complete it! It was actually our original challenge post that inspired their trip, which is a pretty big honor!

All photos by Maggie.

We reached out to Maggie to find out more about her trip, and here’s what we learned:

What was it that inspired you to hike the Flint Hills Nature Trail?

My research inspired me to hike the FHNT.  It begins in the early spring, my obsessive need to find that perfect off the beaten path trail.  By late summer/early fall I’m all set and embarking on my new journey.

I must admit though, the challenge posted for this particular trail peaked my interest.   There are not many firsts in life, snatch them up while you can!

Did you have a favorite part along the way?

It’s hard to chose a favorite part of the FHNT.  Every section is so diverse in its beauty.  From the deep shaded forest to the picturesque prairie and all the fresh farmland in between.  It makes it impossible to pick just one.

Were there any parts that needed to be worked on in terms of building?14333639_10154485147534547_2785065765529463476_n

There were some underdeveloped sections of the trail, but even those held breathtaking beauty.

I feel that the trail council, friends of the trail and all the volunteers are doing a great job maintaining and developing the trail.  It takes time and money, but it will just keep getting better!

We’ve had a lot of people ask us at our readings about camping along the trail. Where were you able to spend the night while you were on the trail?

Camping along the trail is prohibited.  I’m not sure if that rule will eventually change with development,  but I believe trail shelters would be a major improvement. (**Side note – we agree!**) That way you could still be in control of where trail users camped, but give the hikers especially a more realistic day and mileage to cover in between.

As it stands now, anyone thru hiking this trail will have to plan accordingly to make their miles in between public campgrounds.  It doesn’t leave a lot of wiggle room for mother nature, failed gear, accidents or just exhaustion.

Who would you recommend try the FHNT?

I would recommend the FHNT to anyone.  This trail quickly made my top ten and is perfect for beginners and veterans alike.14237628_10154473083099547_2977704645742298232_n

How long did it take start to finish?

It took Carrie and I nine days to thru hike this trail.  We had quite a time locating trailheads and safe parking that first day, putting us off to a late afternoon start and only gaining 8 miles.  We walked off the trail in Herington the following Thursday around six in the evening,  and headed straight to Subway!

Any hazards along the trail?

We didn’t encounter any hazards along this trail that aren’t the norm on any trail.  The usual down trees, rickety bridges on the list for repairs, and wildlife with the occasional predator.

Any advice to those who want to try thru-hiking the FHNT?

My advice to anyone wanting to thru hike the FHNT would be do your research and make a plan.  This trail is unique with its no camping on the trail rule.  This will make your hike even more challenging and add some side miles.

GPS will become your best friend, for many miles of the trail are not marked, especially near towns.

However, the rewards of this trail definitely outweigh the obstacles.

Run or bike the first ever Bridge to Bridge event 9/17/16

The first ever Tour de Trails 5k will be this Saturday — 9/17/16. Hosted by the Central Kansas Conservancy, the race will be held start north of the railroad bridge on the Valkommen trail in Lindsborg and then moves onto the Meadowlark Trail.

The Meadowlark Trail, on the former Union Pacific railroad corridor, stretches 13 miles from McPherson to Lindsborg, though you won’t have to go the full length for this race.

There’s a 5k for runners as well as a 5k for cyclists. Here’s the schedule:

9:00 – 9:45 – Registration/Packet Pick up

10:00 – Bike Event Starts

10:10 – Runners/Walkers Event Starts

11:00-12:00 – Finish Line Festivities Enjoy Refreshments and Give-a-Ways!

Registration is $15 and you can sign up here.

Flint Hills Nature Trail Challenge On The Verge of Completion!

Flint Hills Nature Trail

Flint Hills Nature Trail near Council Grove

Our challenge to thru-hike the Flint Hills Nature Trail has been accepted, and is on the verge of being completed! Follow the final legs of the trip on the Kanza Rail Trails Conservancy Facebook Group. We’ll post a complete story as soon as the journey is completed, cheer on Maggie Reather as she hikes on towards Council Grove! #FHNT